How To Repair Side Seam In Heavy Work Pants

In our previous tutorials we showed y'all how to sew inseam pockets and flat-felled seams. These two skills are very useful to know and are often used in garment making. So today we decided to have you i step further and combine the two by showing you how to add an inseam pocket to a flat-felled seam.

Surprisingly, there are very few instructions nearly this technique on the Net and since information technology is a great sewing skill to know if you want to make a pair of pants or a brim with reinforced seams, we idea it deserves a proper tutorial!

Materials & Tools

Fabric of your option (we are usingIL019 GINGER Softened medium weight linen)

Matching sewing thread (for the purpose of this tutorial we have used a darker color thread), pair of scissors, ruler/measuring tape, pins, material marker/chalk, sewing car

Difficulty

Intermediate

Time

i hour

Pattern

Annotation: When sewing apartment-felled seams, remember to increase the seam assart of your pattern to five/8″.

You can either draw your own pocket or use our printable template. With this template, your finished pocket will approximately measure 10″ten 6″ (25,v ten 15 cm).

Make sure that you lot take two mirrored pieces for each pocket. The best way to get your pockets right is to fold your cloth in half and so pivot the template an inch away from the fold. Cut through both layers of fabric at the aforementioned time and don't add the seam allowances as they are already included in the template.

Steps

Note: Prewash your material and tumble dry out it until information technology is still slightly moist, dry in room temperature. Fe the fabric and so information technology is easier to piece of work with.

1. Before you can start sewing, y'all need to cease the rounded edges of your pocket pieces with a serger or a zigzag stitch in order to prevent the fabric from fraying in the future. Leave the five/eight″ seam allowances raw at both ends of the opening.

Usually, your design volition give yous indications where to place the pockets but if your blueprint doesn't call for inseam pockets or you want to add them to one of your own creations, then it'south up to you to decide where to place them. Try on your unfinished garment and determine the all-time spot.

2. Pivot your front pocket piece to the front pattern piece correct sides together.

iii. To attach your pocket panel to the fabric, kickoff stitching in from the side of the opening an amount equal to the seam allowance required for the flat felled seam (5/8 of an inch). Note that yous stitch a perpendicular line that is 5/eight" long simply at a ¼" seam allowance. Refer to the images beneath if this is not clear. And then sew together downwards to the end of the opening and back out to the side to create a rectangular shape. Remember to backstitch.

4. Trim the raw edges inside the rectangle down to i/8″ and clip to the corners.

5. Fold your pocket panel to the other side and carefully press the seam flat and the trimmed seam allowances on the side.

6. Working from the right side, topstitch your pocket panel (only the pocket length) in identify 1/4″ from the edge. This sew line will later blend in with your flat felled seam stitch line.

vii. Place the second pocket slice on top of the first i right sides together and sew together along the curve from the spot where the kickoff pocket console is attached to the main material and up to the spot where it ends.

You now accept a completed pocket fastened to the front of your project.

8. Now place the back pattern slice under the front piece correct sides touching and pin adjustment the raw edges. Note how the edge that you trimmed is shorter – don't worry, it volition later be hidden under the flat-felled seam.

nine. Stitch at a 5/8″ seam allowance and be careful non to catch the under pocket edge when you sew.

Here's a look from the right side:

10. Trim the border that has several levels downward to 1/4″.

11. Fold the wider seam allowance over the trimmed one all the style to the stitching line and press. Fold information technology again and press flat to enclose all the raw edges inside. Pin.

12. Before completing your side apartment-felled seam, edgestitch the folded seam allowance parallel to the pocket opening.

thirteen. Now edgestitch the folded seam allowances to and from the pocket opening to create a apartment-felled seam. Align your stitching with the sew together line that you've just made and when you reach the opening, reinforce it with a bar tack. With your needle yet in the fabric, set up your auto to a buttonhole sew and sew a small tack perpendicular to the side seam.